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About 20 Km
south-east of Rangdum stands the Panzila axis, across which
lies Zanskar, the most isolated of all the trans-Himalayan
valleys. The Penzila pass (4,401m) is a picturesque
tableland surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
As the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of Penzi-la
to the head of the Stod valley, the majestic "
Drang-Drung" glacier looms into full view. A long and
winding river of ice and snow, "Drang-Drung" is
perhaps the largest glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen
formation. It is from the cliff-like snout of this extensive
glacier that the Stod or Doda tributary of the Zanskar River
rises.
Zanskar is a tri-armed valley system situated between the
Great Himalayan Range and the Zanskar mountains, the three
arms radiating star-like towards the west, north and south
from a wide central expanse. Here the Zanskar River comes
into being by the confluence of its two Himalayan
tributaries, the Stod/Doda and the Lingti-Tsarap rivers. It
is mainly along the course of this valley system that the
region’s approximately 14,000 strong, mainly Buddhist
population, live.
In and Around
Rangdum
Rangdum is situated almost halfway between Kargil and Padum
and was founded in the 18th Century by Losang Geleg Yeshe
Drogpa. The Dukhang or assembly hall holds many beautiful
statues. There is a great statue of Buddha in the small
temple just behind.
Sani
This is believed to be the oldest Ka-ni-ka (named after the
former king of Kashmir) Gompa in Zanskar. Unlike most in
Ladakh and Zanskar, this Gompa is built like a castle in the
village on flat ground, and involves no steep climbs, and so
is more welcoming then the average Gompa. There is an
impressive prayer room, full of Buddhist statues and plenty
of frescoes and Thankas to delight. There is also a famous
stone carving of the Maitreya Buddha on a large rock near
the Gompa.
Padum
Padum is the ad ministrative
headquarters of the Zanskar region, but was once an ancient
capital with very light population of Buddhist and Suni
Muslim. Padum itself has little to offer, but serves as a
good base for exploring near by villages, monasteries and
treks.
Tagrimo
Situated in Padum plain, is a Kagyupa monastery with about
30 resident monks. It was built in the 17th century. Among
the paintings one can recognize Nawang Namgyal, founder of
the Bhutanese theocracy.
Pipting
Is the north east of Padum. Stupa and a few buildings,
including a temple are above the village. The temple has
pictures of Avalokeshvara with eleven heads, Padmasambhava,
Maitreya, as well as Vajrabhairava and Tsong Khapa. The last
two indicate that this monastery belongs to Gelupa
tradition.
Karsha
This is one of the most important Gompa in Zanskar, dating
back to about the 11th century, and belonging to the Gelukpa
order. A large white complex housing over one hundred monks,
the Karsha Gompa holds pujas, often different from those in
Ladakh, we should be witnessed, if possible. The three day
Gustor festival held in July or August each year is
particularly spectacular. There is also a five hundred year
old nunnery.
Thonde
On the way to Zangla is the gompa at Thonde, nearly 20 km
from Padum. With about 50 monks of the Gelukpa order, Thonde
is now the second largest gompa in Zanskar, after the one at
Karsha. The village of Tsazar, half a between Thonde and
Zangla, also has an impressive gompa.
Zangla
The road continues past Tsazar to the village and gompa at
Zangla, which belongs to the Drukpa. It is also where the
king of Zanskar has his castle. Zangla is 35 km from Padum,
and can be included in one of a few three or four day trek
around the area. There is a small nunnery near by which is
also worth exploring.
Bardan
The remote gompa at Bardan is about 12 km south of Padum, on
the trekking route to Darcha. It belongs to the Drukpa
order, and was built in 17th century.
Muni
Is upstream from Bardan with in 2 1/2 hours walking
distance. The monastery houses a small community of Gelupa
monks. The murals have been repainted recently and portray
subjects particularly venerated by Tsong Khapa's disciples,
such as Yamantaka and the protector Chukden.
Zongkul
Two caves associated with the great Indian master Naropa (10
century) are the oldest religious center within the
monastery. Two temples were built over the first cave with
the monastery around. Temple walls are hung with beautiful
Thankas. unfortunately, there are only faint traces of the
paintings which embellished the first cave, but Naropa's
footprints are there. The second cave is above the monastery
and houses statues of Naropa and Vajradhara.
Phuktal
This is the most impressive monastic site in Zanskar. At a
turn of the path, the monastery suddenly towers up in front
of you. The buildings huddle up against the entrance to a
cave which is the religious center of monastic group. The
foundation of Phuktal goes back to Pagpa Sherap, the
translator of Zanskar, at the beginning of the 12th century.
A painting portraying the medicine Buddha Bhaishajyaguru is
on the left wall and Vajradhara is on the right wall. The
wall at the back is decorated with portraits of Tsong Khapa.
On the right wall, the monks have recently painted pictures
of Guhyasamaja and Avalokiteshvara with four hands, and on
the left wall are green Tara and Shakyamuni
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